textiles
What are surface techniques and embellishments?
Used to enhance material in some way to make material more aesthetically pleasing
What is dyeing?
Immersing the length of the fabric in a dye bath to colour it through
Can also happen at the fibre or yarn stage
What are the five types of dyeing?
Piece dyeing
Dip dyeing
Random dyeing
Tie and dye
batik
What is piece dyeing + one negative
Refers to dyeing the length of a material
Negative- inconsistencies in the quality of the finished material
What is dip dyeing?
Refers to immersing part of the fabric in a dye bath and slowly removing it to give a graduated effect
What is random dyeing?
Refers to colouring small sections of the materials or yarn
No regularity in the finished result
What is tie and dye?
Refers to tying or knotting the material in different ways before immersing it into a dye bath
Achieves random patterns by dye not colouring knotted sections
Referred to as resist method
What is batik?
Process of applying hot melted wax to materials before immersing it into a dye bath
Resist method
Applied in a pattern
Process can be repeated
What are four types of paint?
Felt tips
Dimensional paints
Fabric paints
Silk paints
What are felt tips?
Specialist felt pens for decorating textile material
Must be fixed with hot iron once design is complete to prevent fading when washed
What are dimensional paints?
Applied to textile materials through a piping tube
Form a raised surface on the material
Patterns can be built up or used as dots to simulate beading
What are fabric paints?
Specialist paints which can be applied to textile materials
Applied directly to material but must be fixed with hot iron once dried
Cannot be mixed with water or paint will bleed
What are silk paints?
Applied directly to material
Should NOT be mixed with water
Watery translucent quality
An outliner (gutta) is applied to the fabric to create a barrier and paint is applied inside
What can be added to silk paint to create interesting effects?
Rock salt
What is printing?
Applying a pattern or image to a material
What is stencilling?
Requires a design to be cut out of card, paper or acetate
Where it is laid onto a material and paint is applied to the areas cut out transferring the design
What is silk screen printing?
Process of applying screens to apply a pattern to a material
Material passes under screen on a conveyor belt with each screen applying a different colour building up the design as it moves along
What are the 7 types of printing?
-silk screen
-stencilling
-roller printing
-discharge printing
-block printing
-inkjet transfer printing
- digital
What is roller printing?
Similar to screen printing
Circular rollers are engraved with a design
Roller leaves an imprint which is then filled with colour
What is discharge painting?
Works with other screen printing methods but a bleaching agent is included in the process which destroys colour leaving a white and much paler design
What is block printing?
Traditional method
Uses a relief block in a repeat batten to build up a design
Pigment or dye is applied to relief design and pressed onto material
Process is repeated until the desired effect is achieved
What is inkjet transfer printing?
Referred to as heat transfer printing
Process of printing an image onto a piece of material
Applied to finished products e.g. t shirts
Involves printing image onto specialist transfer paper
Placed on material and heat pressed to transfer
What is digital printing?
Faster method
Designs created through CAD programme and sent directly to printer
What are the 6 types of embroidery?
-hand embroidery
-machine embroidery
-applique
-beadwork
-patchwork
-quilting
What is hand embroidery?
Applying each stitch to the material by hand
Material usually held in hoop to make process easier
What is machine embroidery?
Different types:
Decorative stitching to enhance work
Embroidered motifs using a computerised sewing machine
Free machine embroidery allows fabric to move freely under needle
What is applique?
Process of stitching a shaped piece of material onto another piece of material
Complex designs can be built up by using a different colour, textured and printed materials
What is beadwork?
Includes using beads, sequins and diamantes onto materials
Usually hand sewn but some can be machine stitched
What is patch work?
Consists of several small pieces of material which are stitched together to make a larger piece
Can form an organised pattern or completely random pieces sewn together
What is quilting?
Consists of three layers of fabric ( a top/facing piece, a middle layer (usually wadding) and an underlayer/the backing)
Quilit can be used to decorate or can be used for insulating and protective additions
What does CAD and CAM stand for?
CAD- computer aided design
CAM- computer aided manufacture
Examples of CAD and CAM?
CAD- used to develop ideas for prints with specialist software
CAM- computerised sewing machines, laser cutter, 3 D printers
What are specialist tools and equipment?
Have specialist features that allow us to carry out tasks more easily and effectively
Tool and equipment group examples?
Measuring and marking
Cutting tools
Sewing tools and equipment
Pressing equipment
Measuring and marking tools?
Tape measure- 150cm in length
Metre ruler- marking of straight lines and hemlines
Tracing wheel- a sharp wheel with spikes to transfer markings on to another template piece
Tailors chalk- used to transfer cutting lines or positioning marks (can be rubbed off)
Marking pens- ^^ can be washed off or dissapear
Cutting tools?
Dressmakers scissors- used to cut fabric, very sharp, handles bent upwards so that the lower blade is flat on table to cut fabric
Pinking shears- cut serrated edge, used to finish materials to prevent fraying
Embroidery scissors- very sharp, pointed blades, cut corners or trim close to stitching lines
Craft knife- used with a cutting board to cut stencils and designs
Seam ripper or quick unpicker- used to cut through seams or to cut the middle of a buttonhole
Laser cutters- CAM, used to cut stencils as well as cutting and engraving a wide variety of materials, high speed, high accuracy and high quality
What are the 3 types of sewing machines?
Basic sewing machine- often referred to as domestic sewing machine, many functions
Computerised sewing machine- wider variety of functions inc built-in stitching
Computerised embroidery- much wider variety of functions, automated embroidery facility
Differents types of feet on a sewing machine?
Zipper foot
Quilting guide
Piping foot
Gathering foot
Free machine embroidery foot
Buttonhole attachment
What are the 3 types of sewing machines?
Basic sewing machine- often referred to as domestic sewing machine, many functions
Computerised sewing machine- wider variety of functions inc built-in stitching
Computerised embroidery- much wider variety of functions, automated embroidery facility
Differents types of feet on a sewing machine?
Zipper foot
Quilting guide
Piping foot
Gathering foot
Free machine embroidery foot
Buttonhole attachment
What needs to be checked to ensure the stitch is correct for the material?
Right size needle
Right type of needle
Stitch tension is correct
Stitch type is suitable
Thread type is suitable
Colour of thread is suitable
Machine is set up correctly
What are overlockers?
Overlockers have a blade that trims the end of materials leaving a straight edge.
The stitches loop over the edge of the materials creating a neat finish.
Can have 3 or 4 cones of thread
The stitch width can be altered
What are pins?
A temporary way of joining two pieces of material together
Pins should be sharp to avoid snagging material
what are needles?
there are numeroyus types of sewing needles with varying lengths dependind on the work being done and different thickness to suit the materials
what is a dressmakers dummy?
useful for checking the fit of a garment during manufacture
some dummies can be adjusted to suit a particular size or person
what are safety pins?
a temporary way of joining fabrics together
They can also be used to thread elastic or cord through a casing
equpiment used to helpo with pressing fabric?
IRON- used with or without steam, with different heat settings, mainly used to press a garmenyt but can also be used to press seams mid way through construction
IRONING BOARD- used along with the iron to press textile products, height is adjustable, usually has a side section to house the iron
SLEEVE BOARD- loons like a mini ironing board, used to press sleeve seams and small seams which are difficult to reach on a standard ironing board
examples of specialist cutting machinery?
straigh knives and band knives
automated die cutters
fabric spreading machines
lay planning equipment
laser cutters
what is pattern cutting?
laying templated onto the surface of the fabric and cutting around each shape
meaning and importance of ↔️
grain line or straight of grain
template is parallel to the selevde edge to allow the garments to hang correctly
what are reasons for following pattern markings?
- adapt a template for different sizes
- ensuring right size is chosen
- lay out templates correctly
- position style details correctly
- match stripes and patterns
- cut out correctly
what are tailor tacking?
a basting stitch taken with a souble thread through two pieces of fabric and them cut apart with large loops being left in each piece for marking seam lines and perforations
what is style details?
style details refer to other textile products - for example shoes and boots where they may have different shaoe toes like pointed or rounded etc.
what does the cost of fabric depend on?
width
fibre content
source
type of weave
applied finishes
what is a textile component?
a small part that are used to help shape,join, fasten or strengthen fabrics allowing them to function effectively
who are components made by?
specialist manufactures
what is the range of standardised widths determined by?
the size of the loom they are constructed on
why are components often bought in bulk?
it is more economical
what is the first consideration of the cost of a product
the fabric
what are reasons for product analysis?
-evaluate the success or failure of a design
-develop and improve on existing designs
-gain ideas for new products
-examine the processss used in the construction of an existing products
-gain a better understanding of how a product works or functions
-compare materials and components used in different products
what factors effect ghe slection of materials and components?
AESTHETICS- colour, pattern
PHYSICAL- weave, density
ECONMONIC- fibre content, directional pile, cost
PERFORMANCE- strength, durability, safety
why are special finishes applied to textile fabrics?
- enhance aesthetic quality
- prolong fabric life
- improve functionality
what are 6 finishes that enhance aesthetic quality?
COLOURING AND SURFACE DECORATION
MERCERISING
GLAZING
BRUSHING
STAIN RESISTANCE
CALANDERING
what is colour and surface decoration?
fabrics beingn dyed, printed or painted etc
or embroidery, applique and beading etc
what is mercerising?
a chemical finish where the fabric is soaked in caustic soda which causes the fibres to swell, leaving a lustrous smooth fabric
can only be applied to cellulosic fibres
what is glazing?
similar to calendaring but is more permanent as stiffeners or resins are added during the process
a chemical finish
what is brushing?
fabric exposed to a series of wire brushes which gently tease and raise the fibres, resulting in a fulffy, soft apperance
mechanical finish which also improves insulation
what is stain resistance?
chemical finish prevents stains from permanently discolouring and spolinh fabrics
improve apperancce of fabric
what is calandering?
fabric is passed through heated rollers which flatten the fibres
gives smoother and more listerous apperance
mechanical finish but not permanent
what 3 finishes enhance fabric life?
moth proofing
stain resistance
flame retardant
what is moth proofing?
a chemical finish is used on wool to repel moths which feed off the keratin found in wool fibre
what is stain resistance?
chemical finish
prevents stains from permanently discolouring and spoiling fabrics
what is flame retardant?
chemicals e.g. proban
applied as a coating to fashion and furnashing fabrics to reduce their ability to ignite and burn
what 4 finishes enhance functionality?
SHRINK RESISTANCE
ANTI STATIC FINISH
CREASE RESISTANCE
WATER PROOFING
what is shrink resistance?
WOOL- treated with chlorine based chemicals preventing shrinkage
COTTON- wet cotton is compressed into its shrunken size then dried so no more shrinkage can occur
what is an anti static finish?
electrostatic charge causes fabrics to cling to body and some cracking might occur
applying a chemical-based product to the fabric stops this from happening
what is crease resistance?
resins are applied to fabrics to prevent them from creasing
resin stiffens fibres
reduces ability of fibres to absorb water
what is waterproofing?
spraying fabrics with silicone prevents water from penetrating through - NOT PERMANENT
applying a flurochemical resin- MORE EFFECTIVE AND WIND RESISTANT
coated with PVA or PVC or wax making them shower proof
what finish is applied to a 100% pure new wool jumper?
chlorine based chemicals which smoothes out the fibres preventing them locking together when washed
what is one off production (bespoke or job production)
-made by high skilled individual
-made to clients specific instructions regarding size, style, design, and choice of fabric and trims
-personalised and unique
-examples are wedding dresses
-high prices
what is batch production?
- manufacture of a set quantity of identical products in a specific timescale
-jobs can be repetitive and boring
-seasonal products often use batch production
-mid to low price
what is mass production?
-largest scale of production
-identical products
-much longer timescale
-constant demand
-examples are t shirts
-jobs are repetitive and boring
-production is quick
-lots pf sizes
what is an assembely line?
a line of equipment manned by workers who gradually assemble a product
what is automated production?
the use of computer-conteolled equipment or machinery in manufavturing
what is automation?
the use of automatic equipment in manufacturing
what is market pull?
a new product is developed in response to a demand in the market or users
what is technology push?
products developed as a eesult of new technology
what does conductive mean?
the ability to transmit heat or electricity
what are the four stages if a product life cycle?
INTRODUCTION- product introduced into the marketplace
GROWTH- sales will grow as consumers become aware of products
MATURITY- sales at their peak
DECLINE- sales begin to fall as most interested consumers now own the product or a new product has replaced if
what is a fad product?
a product that is only popular for a limited period of tims
what is legislation?
-law says that products sold must be safe
-failing to comply with legal requirements can lead to fines or even imprisonment
-producers must warn consumers of ANY potential risks attached to the use of a product
what is BSI?
sets safety standards and soecifications for a range of products
- products are thouroughly tested and inspected
what is ISO?
develops and publishes international standards for materials, products, processes and services
each standard is given an individual ISO number- there are mire than 22,000
what are consumer rights?
- act of 2015 protects customers when purchased or servuces are provided not as expected
-
what does counterfeit mean?
an imitation of soemthing sold with the intent to defraud
what is compensation?
payment given to someone as a result of loss
what is a linear economy?
resources taken and extracted from earth-> products made cheaply and sold-> products are simply disposed of when no longer needed
what is a circular economy?
MAKE->USE->RECYCLE
what is design obsolescence?
some products are designed or manufactured in a way that limits their life cycle
what is carbon footprint?
a measure of how much greenhouse gases are produced in results of human activity
what are 6 renewable sources of energy?
-wind
-solar
-gerthermal
-hydroelectric
-wood/biomass
-wave
what are 4 non renewable energy sources?
-coal
-oil
-gas
-nuclear
what is wind energy?
when a wind turbine extracts energy from the wind
blades are connected to a generator which produces electricity
what is solar energy?
PV panels produce electricity when exposed to sunlight
what is geothermal enegy?
cold water is pumped underground and hested by the earths heat
can be used in home sor power stations and converted to electricity
what is hydroelectric energy?
dams which house large turbines, are built to trap water
water is released and the pressure turns the turbines generating electricty
what is biomass energy?
plants such as soy are grown to produce materials which can be processed into biofuels
what is coal energy?
coal is mines from the ground and burned in power starions to generate electricty
what is oil energy?
crude oil is extracted from the earth and refined into the liquid fuels such as petrol
what is gas energy?
gas extracted through drilling and piped through the national grid to houses
what is nuclear energy?
uranium is mined from the earth and transformed into nuclear fuel
used in a nuclear generator to generate heat and then converted into enery
what are shape memory alloys?
return to original shape when heated
what are polymorph?
when heated in water to 62°c it softens and forms a pilable colume of material
what is photochromic pigment?
change colour in response to changes in light
what is thermochromic pigments?
change coliur in response to a change in heat
what are micro encapsulation?
process of applying a microscopic capsules to fibres fabrics paper and card
what are the 6 R's
rethink
reuse
recycle
repair
refuse
reduce
info about laura ashley?
- initially designed napkins, table mats and tea towels
- brand established through selling headscarves
-started designing dresses for social wear instead of work
- lived sustainability- using natural materials and recycled
info about stella mccartney?
- trademark design= silk slip dresses
- green conscious
- refuses to use leather or fur
infomation on orla keily?
- uses her childhood home for inspiration
- printed sten design
- embraces technology
examples of natural fibres?
- cotton
- linen
- hemp
- jute
- bamboo
- soya
ANIMAL
- wool
INSECT
- silk
examples of synthetic fibres?
- polyester
- nylon
- polypropene
- acrylic
what is a natural polymer?
come from natural sources : plants (cellulosic) and animals (protein)
are sustainable and biodegradable
what are synthetic polymers?
artificial fibres derived from oil, coal, minerals etc
joined togeyher by polymerisation
what are mixed fibres?
fibres mized together by adding yarns of different fivres during production of fabric
what are blended fibres?
two or more dofferent fibres spun together to make a single yarn
what are pleats?
fabric is folded back on itself and sewn in place, natrowing the original width of the material but adding shape
adds a decorative frill
what are tucks?
similar to pleats and draw in fullness
what are gathers?
fabric edge is gently drawn in to reduce and narrow the original width of the fabric, gicing fullness and shape
what are darts?
made by creating folds in the fabric that taper to a point to improve shape and fit
what is a princess seam line?
used to create a tight fitting garmentthat follows the contours of the body
darts joined from mid armhole through yhe fullest part of the bust down to waistline and hip
what is an open specification?
list of criteria the product must meet but not specifying how it should be achieved
what is critera?
specific goals that a product must achieve in order to be successful
what is a closed specification?
list of criteria stating what must be achievef and how it must be met