Coasts
How do waves form?
Waves form when wind blows over the sea. Friction with the surface of the water causes ripples to form. These turn in to waves.
what is the fetch?
The distance the wind blows across the watercis called the fetch.
The longer the fetch is the powerful the wave is.
What happens when waves meet the coast?
only when waves approach the shore is these forward movement as the waves break up and surge up the beach.
what is the swash?
The swash is when the water goes up the beach.
What is the backwash?
The backwash is when the water comes back down from the beach.
waves types :
constructive waves and destructive waves.
Constructive waves characteristics:
• Swash is stronger than the backwash.
• Carry and diposit large amount of sand and pebbles and 'construct the beach'.
• Formed by storms that often hundreds of miles away which create a large swell.
Destructive waves characteristics:
• Backwash in larger than swash.
• Higher and steeper profiles.
• Formed by local storms close to the coast.
• Closely spaced and often interfere with each causing chaotic swirling water.
Coastal processes:
• Hydraulic action
• Abrasion
•Attrition
• Corrosion
•Weathering