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Wk 5 Skin Penetration

Fat soluble vitamins such as A, D, E, and K easily dissolve into the intercellular cement which is made out of lipids

True

Maximum hand contact and a slow rhythm during massage will increase heat which will increase product penetration.

True

High frequency and Galvanic are two pieces of equipment that increases the penetration ability of a product put on the skin.

True

The bulk of the Intercellular lipids is made of

Ceramides

Penetration refers to products reaching deep into the layers of the skin so that it can penetrate into the blood stream.

False

A buildup of dead cells on the surface of the skin will hinder penetration. And as skin's become older the rate of cell turnover slows which also can decrease the time of natural desquamation. An esthetician has many products and tools that can help reduce a thick stratum corneum such as exfoliation, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, or dermaplaning.

True

Sodium PCA, Retinoids and Squalene not only have a smaller molecular structure but also have an affinity to or are attracted to the lipids that make up the intercellular cement. Because of this they are often not included in treatment products as their easy penetration can cause irritation.

False

Liposomes are an example of a skin identical ingredient because they are made out of ceramides.

True

Many formulations include penetration enhancers to improve the product/active ingredients ability to make it into the skin at least potentially to the stratum germinativum. While some enhancers may improve penetration, many are simultaneously damaging the barrier function and causing barrier disorders. The best way to improve penetration is to include skin identical ingredients like ceramides as well as keeping the molecule size less than 500 Dalton.

True

Chemical exfoliants usually refers to the use of Hydroxy Acids such as glycolic acid to dissolve the keratin or enzymes like bromelain from papaya and papain from pumpkin to dissolve the desmosomes and intercellular cement.

False

Both the size of the skin corneocytes (which varies with site, age and skin type) as well as in the size of the molecules in the product/s being penetrated are important factors affecting skin penetration.

False

Hydrating the skin with the use of a steamer can assist in product penetration; however over-steaming can cause as irritation and barrier problems leading to excessive penetration (due to the disrupted barrier function).

True

One should be cautious about exfoliation as over-exfoliation may cause skin irritation and increase the penetration of unwanted substances.

True

Excessive sebum on the skin will not hinder penetration but interferes with absorption.

False

A compromised or damaged barrier function is one that is not strong and can allow the penetration of unwanted substances into the skin.

True

Cleansers are not designed to penetrate the skin so cannot cause skin irritation or cause barrier problems.

False

Retinoids are another term for vitamin E.

False

Hydrating toners containing the humectant glycerin can help with product penetration.

True

Serums are usually made with small molecules.

True

It is believed that at minimum a cosmetic formulator should include 3% of an active ingredient for it to be of any benefit to the formulation.

True

Cooler skin temperatures help to not only calm an irritated skin down but will also increase product penetration.

False

Products designed for the body should not be used on the face because of the penetration differences between most areas of the body and the face.

True

Cells begin to die in the stratum corneum producing intercellular cement

False

Some skin types such as alipidic, will naturally have a compromised or weaker barrier function and some barrier functions are weakened by incorrect use of products or skin care techniques.

True

The forehead is more penetrable than the chin area of the face.

True

A treatment cream that is not very permeable due to the larger sized molecules in the formulation would most sit on the surface of the skin. An example of this would be a formulation that includes the ingredient collagen. Collagen cannot penetrate and will act as a humectant on the skin.

True

When choosing a cleanser for oily skin it is best to listen to the client about how oily they believe their skin to be as this will help you choose the best products to reduce the barrier and increase penetration.

False

The routes of penetration include the Intercellular route (through the intercellular cement that holds the corneocytes together), the intracellular route (through the cells) and the trans-appendagel route. Because the intercellular route is the best because of surface area, penetrable cosmetic formulations are made with skin identical ingredients like ceramides and cholesterol.

True

Reducing surface oils on an oily skin then applying a Keratolytic may result in irritation.

True

The lower the molecular weight or Dalton number the more difficult it is to penetrate and ingredient. Larger Dalton numbers indicate how active an ingredient is and therefore, how able it is to penetrate the skin.

False

Transdermal means that substances can penetrate through the epidermis and dermis to be absorbed into the bloodstream.

True

A healthy well-functioning skin with a strong barrier function helps to increase the skin's immune functioning and can reduce dehydration, sensitivity, inflammation, and signs of ageing.

True

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